Wireless Sensor Bar

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  • #17
xstatic said:
Keep in mind that a LED is basically a short circuit with a voltage drop across it.

Assuming 1.7V and 25mA for your LED

V=IR
9V-1.7V=25mA*Rohms
7.3/.025=292

So try a 300 Ohm
Click to expand...

xstatic is right on in how to figure out resistance for the circuit. For basic run of the mill LEDs, figure 1.7 to 2 Vdc and 20 to 25mA current. I'd really recommend a datasheet to make sure you can get the max brightness out of the LEDs. Otherwise, as someone else pointed out, you can use a fine trim variable resistor initially set at 300 Ohms and adjust it for max brightness. Just be aware that you'll need something like a digital camcorder, camera or webcam so you can see the IR output and watch for when it peaks right before it burns out. Or you can just use a few visible red LEDs in place of the IRs to peak the circuit with instead.
 
@OP: Salvaging your Sensor bar? I don't think you need to take the sensor bar apart. All you need to do is cut the cord (lolz). Find a guide, someone cut the cable and put in a plug. Some resistors and stuff had to be done, but still you won't need to take apart the sensor bar. Also, i am making my own Sensor bar from scratch :D i got LEDs and Perf board and all that junk. Hope to have time to put it together...
 
gamechaser001 said:
sensorbar.jpg
Click to expand...
I would reccomend that you run several LEDs in parallel rather than two LEDs in series. You will get max brightness out of the LEDS if you arrange them in parallel because you are supplying them with the full voltage of your batteries rather than V/# of LEDs.
 
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  • #21
tighr said:
I would reccomend that you run several LEDs in parallel rather than two LEDs in series. You will get max brightness out of the LEDS if you arrange them in parallel because you are supplying them with the full voltage of your batteries rather than V/# of LEDs.
Click to expand...
I thought about different wiring plans, i'm thinking that since i am working in a confined space, and I plan to have different connections on it later down the road (AC plug, differnt batteries, etc), the circular like current is better than parallel since I may be switching resistor/power source kits depending where I am and what batteries are readily available, I originally wanted to run of of AA/AAA batteries since they are readily available where I live (we don't buy 9V very often, not many devices I own that run off of them), but if 9V batteries are easier to work with, I can start on that and move to other battery choices later down the line, it just sounds confusing to use parallel if I would be switching my battery type
 
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So nobody knows the best thing to do? I'm just planning on making a wireless sensor bar that works and works well, right now I am just wondering what I can use to see what resistance level it requires
 
Why did you even try and make your own. Look, Nintendo went through the trouble to make the wired one look good and work well....SOOOO....Adapt theirs to become wireless....IE figure out what voltage they output on the pins and put the correct battery configuration instead of the wii. Most likely its a 9V comming out, so all you would do is connect a 9V battery to the current sensor bar pins. Keep it Simple.
 
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  • #24
viperjason said:
Why did you even try and make your own. Look, Nintendo went through the trouble to make the wired one look good and work well....SOOOO....Adapt theirs to become wireless....IE figure out what voltage they output on the pins and put the correct battery configuration instead of the wii. Most likely its a 9V comming out, so all you would do is connect a 9V battery to the current sensor bar pins. Keep it Simple.
Click to expand...
you didn't read the whole thread did you? Somebody already gave that idea, and did you see how I refused? Honestly, you think I am going to cut my sensor bar wires when people who tried fixing their broken wires, even after attaching the wires in the right order, had problems afterwards?

I thought everything out, I am asking one simple question, nobody seems to be getting this, the only question I am asking is...

WHAT IS THE RESISTANCE LEVEL!!!

I know that all IR LEDs are not the same, but there are similarities, also, if there isn't any set resistance level, is there a tool that will tell me the required resistance level? Simple question, just looking for the answer, no "just buy the nyko one" or "just use candles" or "cut the wire on the one you have and attach a 9V", I have the parts, I have everything I need except the resistors, but like I said before, if you use the wrong resistors, the bar is a good as garbage, in other words, the IR LEDs would burn out and become unusable

[edit]
here's the link to the guy that tried splicing the wires back together, just imagine his Wii as a 9V battery
http://www.wiichat.com/nintendo-wii-hardware/20493-sensor-bar.html#post277679
 
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